Three years ago, in the middle of math class, my quiet scribbling was interrupted by an argument that some of my peers were having on the origin of biriyani, a fragrant, indulgent rice dish often mixed with vegetables, dry fruits, and spiced meat, with some claiming that it’s a Pakistani dish, and others claiming that it’s Indian. Until that day, I didn’t realize how sensitive the origins of these popular dishes were. Still, I, too, initially found myself getting carried away in what appeared to be an essential cultural pillar.
After class, I found myself genuinely intrigued by the origins of this dish and why, despite being centuries old (or even a couple millennia, according to some legends), it is still the subject of heated debate today. However, the dish itself didn’t even originate in South Asia. It is, in fact, heavily influenced by Persian cuisine, with the word “Biriyani” coming from the Persian word “Birian”, meaning fried before cooking, which refers to the complex cooking techniques that give biriyani its distinct flavor.
There are many stories and theories about how the Persian dish reached India, ranging from the influence of the Mughal Empire to Persian pilgrims, soldiers, and statesmen bringing it to the Deccan region.
Ciera Tavana, founder of Muse, an Atlanta-based tea house that uses ancestral traditions for healing and wellness, discusses how there’s a significant connection between these regions that spans history, stating that “if you follow the spice road, you will learn everything you need to know,” and that if she wants to know something about food, she’s “studying less about culture, and studying more the plant.”
Tavana also notes that she has observed that many of today’s functional dishes can be traced back to war, such as chia seeds, which the Aztecs used, and that war often leads to mass cultural exchange. Her observations are reminiscent of one of the more popular myths about how biriyani came to life.
The version of the story I grew up with, posted on the wall of one of my favorite restaurants, described how Mumtaz Mahal, an empress consort of the Mughal Empire, visited military barracks and saw how malnourished the soldiers were. Instructing the royal kitchen to come up with a simple, nourishing, and delicious meal, biriyani was born.
Biriyani’s long history means it has changed drastically over time, with regions across South Asia adding their own twists and distinct flavors. Coastal regions make biriyani with seafood instead of meat; other regions cook it with alternative methods (like “dum,” a slow-cooking technique); and yet other areas add a tangy flavor with yogurt. Ultimately, these variations have resulted from regional preferences, reflecting the various traditions behind a singular, beloved dish.
Rosanna Yu, a high school student, mentions that “food can really help distinguish specific cultures, ranging from their distinct spices to tastes,” and that “no two dishes are the same.” She explains how the history of food “tells a story, and represents history,” which is crucial in today’s highly globalized environment.
Considering biriyani and the hundreds of thousands of other dishes from around the world that wouldn’t be possible without human diffusion and connection, I think the debate around food is, in itself, paradoxical.
The same openness to different cultures that allowed food like biriyani to even come to life and flourish in popularity (despite whichever origin story is the “correct” one) is, in itself, contradicted by multiple disagreements about who truly has the right to call the dish their own.
Food is something to be shared, not barred. However, we must be careful not to rip foods from their cultural contexts, as Tavana explains, as this may cause more harm than good, even contributing to cultural appropriation. But by honoring traditions, respecting cultural origins, and, most of all, being open to change and the natural processes that make each dish unique, everyone can partake in and enjoy the dishes (and the stories behind them) that bind us to our ancestors.
As Tavana says, “Every household has their own blend.”
